The Richemont brand presented, in early July in Paris, an exceptional collection of haute jewelry where each piece is revealed as one and multiple, conceals a message, offers an enigma, hides a mechanism.
“It is the only jeweler we watch like milk on fire,” says an official of a large house in the Place Vendome that requires anonymity. In terms of creation, marketing and “value for money”, they are the best. Not to mention the quality of their stones and the design of their models. Van Cleef is a formidable competitor. ”
It must be noted that this company established in Place Vendôme in 1906, bought by Richemont in 1999, displays, for five years, an insolent growth. According to our estimates, VCA’s turnover would now exceed 1.5 billion euros. Without making bags or glasses nor pen or tie. Just jewelery – gold and precious stones – and watches whose sales, once anecdotal, would now weigh the same weight as those of a small Swiss watchmaking brand …
Far from boasting of the rise in power of the house he has run since 2013, Nicolas Bos confirms that no diversification is envisaged – except perhaps every three years, the manufacture of a precious automaton to Like the Fairy Ondine exhibited in Geneva last January and recently sold a few million euros to a private individual … As for the reception of the highly anticipated collection of haute jewelry “Le Secret”, presented this spring in preview To brand customers in Japan, Bos is content with a “indicators are good”.
In Paris, Van Cleef opened five years ago in the premises of the jewelery school and has welcomed more than 15,000 students and this group has been unveiled. There is no need for a spectacular scenography as these seventy pieces (eventually, the collection will count 110) are self-sufficient. “The secret jewelry appeared in filigree in our history, explains Nicolas Bos. If Van Cleef & Arpels is known for its mysterious set in which the metal disappears under the stones, we have in our archives several examples of rings becoming a bracelet, necklaces completely transformable into earrings, brooches, hair jewelery, Watches with retractable mechanism. Five years ago, we wanted to create a full-fledged collection on this theme, in which each piece would have a secret. We should have taken it out before, but it was complicated: the technique had to be put to the service of the aesthetics and the history of our house. After “Emeralds in majesty”, set dedicated to a type of gem, and “L’Arche de Noë”, a precious bestiary, this vintage 2017 offers a complete panorama of what a fine jewelry workshop is capable of accomplishing.”
Unlike the “Palace of Luck”, launched in 2012, whose multiple categories (lucky jewelry, happy stories, etc.) made the perception of the theme indigestible, these adornments, all double-reading, are paradoxically an understanding immediate. Everyone knows that the smallest piece will conceal a rebus, a treasure, a surprise, this creates an infinitely playful dynamic. With this “Secret”, Van Cleef & Arpels manages to build a high-value jewelery collection (several pieces are more than 1 million euros), while giving it an amusing, funny, unusual dimension in this universe .
Exceptional pieces with multiple bearings
The eye is first struck by the size of the models. Van Cleef & Arpels delivers a more consistent, more consistent aesthetic, never to be missed. Vulgar, or feverish, which suits her best. Here is for example a powerful necklace in onyx, spinels, pearls and diamonds in the center of which two small owls are the guardians of the secret: hulled under a sky starred or beaded with clouds.
Past master in the art of transformation, the jeweler creates adornments offering multiple porters. Like the sumptuous necklace Bird on the branch, inspired Art Deco, whose avalanche of balls of Burmese ruby - more than 567 carats of stones – allows to obtain four different models (about 2 million euros ). Still more stunning, this pegasus ras-de-neck whose ribbons of diamonds baguettes, glitter and emeralds are perfectly ordered around a 45 carat Ceylon sapphire, an unreal blue. Surprised by the depth of the color of this stone, the central pampille hides in its heart a miniature winged horse in white gold. 2200 hours of work for this ultra-expensive subject to more than 5 million euros. Let us quote these vegetable brooches, where, from a leaf in brilliants, of a petal of orange and mauve sapphires, ladybirds and butterflies appear as spinels and hard stones. Or these adornments whose flakes of diamonds pass from the winter to the spring by displaying on their reverse a set of emeralds green pimpant.
The rings leave speechless like those subjects of varying geometry whose turn or face turns to change face, blue sapphires turn yellow, a star of diamond is transformed into crescent moon Black … What a brio!